by Jeremy Sobel
As part of my internship program at Worcester Polytechnic Institute, where I am a chemical engineering student, I spent April and May 2025 of my junior year teaching at Cerrito School in Benjamin Aceval, Paraguay. Commuting often between the bustling capital city of Asunción and the rural town of Benjamin Aceval enabled me to learn a lot about Paraguay’s road culture, what is considered normal and what to watch out for, how to navigate local norms and adopt safety precautions.
As I am unable to resist any travel opportunity, (I am twenty-one and have already visited seventy-five countries) while in South America, I also embarked on several road trips to surrounding countries and will comment very briefly on Chilean Patagonia, as well.
Paraguay is arguably a lesser-known country in South America, a country about which I have been asked several times, “Where is that exactly, Africa?” Paraguay is actually a landlocked country between Argentina, Brazil, and Bolivia. It is a cultural melting pot, full of friendly people with family and soccer at the forefront of daily life. Unfortunately, traffic laws are often disregarded, including speed limits, stop signs, and traffic signals. Many drivers do not have insurance, and the motorcycle crash rate is high.
Asunción is a relatively safe city. However, several of the people who I travelled with were pickpocketed in downtown areas of Asunción, including Mercado 4 and along the waterfront. Pickpockets are prevalent inside bars and clubs in Carmelitas. In my opinion, walking alone at night, especially in crowded areas, is relatively safe, however, it is important to be careful and use common sense.
Despite the fact that, legally, pedestrians have the right of way, at marked crossings, including crosswalks, and zebra crossings, drivers in Asunción do not expect or let pedestrians cross the street in front of them, I quickly learned to always wait for a large break in traffic to cross.
Dirt Road in Benjamin Aceval, Paraguay
Driving in rural Paraguay is not difficult during the day. Most roads are one-lane highways, and the thoroughfares are fairly well paved, although they may have large potholes. The scenery is beautiful — Paraguay has more cows than people, so driving through farmland is very pleasant.
Aside from major highways, the road quality in rural Paraguay can vary. While generally adequate, the majority of side roads are dirt, and livestock such as pigs, cows, horses, and chickens roam the streets as if it is their barn. Livestock can wander onto major highways, where drivers are known to speed. Drivers should keep this in mind and be extra cautious around rural farm areas. Dirt roads can be difficult to navigate, especially during the rainy season.
While in Paraguay, I immersed myself in the local soccer culture, attending numerous games that initially surprised me in several ways. Soccer stadiums were heavily guarded by riot-protection forces at entrances, creating a unique atmosphere. The traffic congestion around the stadiums was constant and often horrendous, with cars often redirected to manage the crowds.
While fights can break out inside stadiums at a moment’s notice, the roads and sidewalks surrounding the stadium are far more dangerous as there is less surveillance and law enforcement presence. During my short two month stay, I observed numerous fights outside of stadiums on sidewalks, posing serious danger to pedestrians.
Police checkpoints are common in Paraguay, especially around the border areas with Argentina and Brazil. When driving near borders, expect to be stopped by police for an ID check. Ensure that you have your passport or ID with you at all times. Police will most likely not ask many questions and will usually not search your vehicle. They will most likely take your documents to their car, make notes, return them, and let you go.
If you plan to drive to bordering countries as a U.S. citizen, note that Paraguay‘s laws are unclear as to the number of times you can enter without a visa. While crossing from Paraguay into Argentina with friends (I had permanent residency in Paraguay, while the other interns did not), we were informed that they would not be allowed back into Paraguay without first obtaining a tourist visa from a Paraguayan Consulate in Argentina. (It is apparently up to the border officer as to whether or not you can return). Unfortunately, we had to turn around at that point so as not to risk being denied reentry.
Chile
While I had more limited experience driving in Chile, I can confidently say that some of the roads in Chilean Patagonia and in the Santiago area are excellent. They are smooth and well-paved whether you fly into Puerto Natales or Punta Arena.
Entering Torres del Paine National Park – Chilean Patagonia
I do, however, have several caveats. First, many other roads in Chilean Patagonia, especially those outside major urban areas, are inadequately lit or unlit. These include many access roads to popular tourist sites. There may also be unpaved in sections. Consider driving by day and renting an all-terrain vehicle.
Second, while encounters with animals are exciting and even mesmerizing, animals are known to cross the road into oncoming traffic. Stop, look, enjoy, but take your time. Reduce your speed. Always be alert and scan the road ahead for animals, especially near wildlife crossings. Be extra cautious during dawn and dusk when wildlife is more active. Animals may travel in groups, so if you see one animal, be aware that there may be others following behind.
My experiences in South America increased my already enormous enjoyment of travel. I cannot wait for my next adventure which I will happily share with you.
Until then I wish you, “¡Bien viaje!”